Wednesday 31 January 2007

Big hill, small mind

Today started with a climb up the official World's Steepest Street. It was indeed very steep 1 in 2.89 or something like that at it's steepest. It's Baldwin Street in Dunedin.

Later on, much to my own amusement I saw this sign.
-AC

Tuesday 30 January 2007

Going Solo

Baz flew out of Invercargill last Friday - on that morning we headed to Bluff and back - where I spotted my favourite number plate so far. Since then I've headed east (not west as planned due to poor weather forecasts) through the Catlin's Coast - a rugged stretch of NZ's southern coastline filled with wildlife and a nice windy, hilly road.
The Catlin's was pretty awesome. There are very few cars that go through despite its charms. It was quite bleak to begin with - see the driftwood picture - but by my second day solo I had gone through plenty of lush rainforest.
My favourite part of the Catlin's was the tremendous wildlife on show. I was treated to a great display of wild Hooker's sea lions (NZ natives) on my first gravel-road diversion to Waipapa Point. The first picture of them features a female waving for the camera, "wassup?!" and the second shows a mighty male (can grow up to 3m long weighing in at 400kg) who hauled himself out of the water to pose for a few shots before deciding he'd had enough and made a token charge to me and the other tourists in his crib. I chuckled to myself as he lumbered towards us!
First thing I had to do to make Baz jealous was head as far south as I could on mainland NZ so I made for Slope Point (further than bluff by some 4 minutes in maritime terms). This involved a pretty lung-busting 4km long climb on gravel road followed by 10 minutes descent and cross country over farmland. A bit of an anticlimax when I got there but worth a picture (third from top); the cliffline scenery was pretty spectacular too. Someone recognised the Manx Flag too and I was chuffed when the old boy said "you're a long way from home mate, eh?"
Next up was the wonderful Curio Bay and it's flax-sheltered campstie. I decided to swim in the surf at nearby Purpoise Bay and was astounded when I was greeted by the diminutive and very rare Hector's dolphins. About 5 of them swam within 3 or 4m of me and tumbled in the surf to say hello. It was a priviledge to watch and something I'll never forget. The next day I decided to get up before sunrise to catch a glimpse of another rare local - the Yellow-Eyed penguin. I was again chuffed, when I spotted half a dozen waddling and hopping their way to the sea for their daily fishing exploits; it was hilarious to watch! The picture below the big daddy sea lion shows the coastline just before sun-up.
The following day I left Curio Bay under a foreboding and moody sky: the rain covers came on in earnest. My first pitstop was at the ironically named Niagara Falls - a piddly "waterfall" named after the real Niagara by a colonial surveyor with a sense of humour. It looked more like a weir to me but made me chuckle all the same.
The rest of that day was taken up by a series of great climbs on winding roads, set against a rainforest backdrop, before I hammered my way into Balclutha with a nice tail wind. I stayed at a small campsite, arriving minutes before the heavens opened, with great facilities including a small homely kitchen and lounge that I would recommend to anyone wanting to stay in the area.
The following day I made for Dunedin and got a tad worried when I saw this sign about halfway (second-to-last pic') nestled in the midst of the rolling green pastoral farmland that characterised the area. What followed was a 10km gravel-road section featuring 5km of tremendous 'pussy ring' (smallest chainring on front) climbing - Baz, you would have loved it!
That climb's descent saw me fly into Taieri Mouth before I made my way painfully and slowly up the east coast to Dunedin - there was a stupidly strong headwind that I had to keep telling myself would only make me stronger. That reassurance lasted most of the way until I nearly cracked when I saw in front of me an almighty climb within striking distance of Dunedin's southern suburbs. I hardened myself up and told myself, "get the f**k up that hill you pussy, and p**s all over it!"
It worked and here I am in Dunedin. The day I arrived I did very little except eat and formulate a plan for yesterday when I went into the city to stay at a backpackers for a rest day and use it as a base to venture into the town. I won't bore you with what I did but suffice to say it's a city with great architecture, a fantastic sports hall of fame and the home of the legendary Speight's Brewery and its awesome 90 minute tour!
Today I'm leaving Dunedin northwards to conquer the steepest street in the world before heading onwards up the coast. Not entirely sure of my route but I hope to make Christchurch by the end of the week...
-AC















Thursday 25 January 2007

Still Alive!

"The Ledge" was awesome! There wasn't really time to get nervous; as soon as I was harnessed up, dragged to the edge to look down, told to smile at the camera and given the good advice of "don't hold back lad, just go for it", I found myself gaining a 6 yard run up and then sprinting toward the edge to perform perhaps the scariest swan-dive ever!

The sensation is just like those dreams where you're falling and your stomach goes sick, only instead of waking up, the bungy snaps you at the waist and you're flying upward towards the base of the platform. For a fraction of a second during that free-fall I thought 'this is it, those rocks are getting awfully close!' but then of course, 'phew, that cord of elastic-bands worked then!' Whilst dangling there waiting to get pulled back up, I did the thing that came naturally and hung on to the bungy for dear life! The weather was stunning, so the scenery looked amazing from up above Queenstown.

To 'come down' after that we decided to have a go on the Luge - a concrete track which you 'drive' down on 3-wheeled sledge-type things (luges I guess?), followed by a game of crazy golf. T'was good fun!

We're now in Invercargill after cycling about 110km to Lumsden yesterday (it took about 4 and a half hours) and another 85km today. The scenery coming out of QT was great as we followed the edge of Lake Wakatipu and the precipitous Remarkables mountain range. However the rest of the way has been a combination of Scotland and the Isle of Man (rolling hills with plenty of sheep; then a low flat plain for most of today's cyling). The long straight roads and lack of scenery combined with a nasty headwind made today easily the most tedious and we were both glad to arrive in Invercargill.

The plan for tomorrow is a 60km 'time trial' to Bluff and back. Then Baz has to catch a plane. I think I'll be heading west to take in the Southern Scenic Route to Te Anau, after which I'll head to Milford Sound.

I'll try freeze framing my video of the bungy and post them on blog at later date. For now here's a few pics of last few days.

Monday 22 January 2007

What's the matter, you chicken?

In Wanaka, two days ago, we decided to go to the Paradiso(?) cinema to watch Mel Gibson's film Apocalypto. I wouldn't recommend it if you don't like blood and gore because it's pretty graphic, but all the same it was fairly entertaining, perhaps worth waiting until the DVD comes out though. The real reason for the trip was to see the cinema more than anything. Instead of normal uncomfortable seats, there are rows of sofas and sweet granny chairs with loads of throw cushions to increase comfort. There is even an old Morris Minor you can sit in (see picture below).















The weather was tremendous in Wanaka and with it's surrounding mountains and lake it really is a beautiful town. It's apparently like Queenstown used to be before it got big-headed; more peaceful and less strained to make an extreme-sport sell. Anyway, I took a picture after leaving the cinema and was surprised it came out so well.















The following day, yesterday (22/01), we headed to Queenstown along the Cardrona valley. It was easy going for much of the way up the valley until the last 5km or so when the road began it's journey up the crown range. At the top we were greeted by a great view down the valley to QT with a great descent in front of us that saw us tear through corners and hair-pins faster than the cars! Ace fun.















And now it's the calm before the storm - in less than two hours I'll be placing my life in the hands of somebody else as I leap from "The Ledge" (http://www.ajhackett.co.nz/index.php/pi_pageid/22). Am I scared? Pretty much.















-AC

The Cycling Monster!

In case you thought I was dawdling around New Zealand with the sun on my back and in holiday mode, think again because here is a low-down on the man, nay, the myth, I've been trying to keep pace with...


















Name: Barry Andrew Stewart (Known as "Andy" in Bali)
DOB: 27/12/1981
Location: Kent
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 69kg

0-60 time: quick
Max speed: 80-85kph
Max power output: about 1,200 watts
Quad size: ridiculous
Calve size: outrageous

Strengths: climbing hills, sprinting away from Cannell, doing no-handies, removing reflectors from wheels to enhance bicycle aesthetics, descending hills, bike ettiquette, bike fashion sense (compared to Cannell AKA Mr. Safe), cycling into headwinds and finally beating Cannell uphill whilst only using one leg!

Weaknesses: having to drag an 80kg Manxman around NZ! Perhaps ice cream? Singing.

We're now in Queenstown and hoping to get a bungy jump in tomorrow on our rest day. After that, assuming we're both still alive etc, we're making our way south to Invercargill and Bluff, the most southerly point of NZ before Baz flies out on 26th and I'm left to my own devices. God alone only knows what will happen then?

-AC

Sunday 21 January 2007

Lakes and Mountains

After arriving in Wanaka following a short ride/recovery day of around 40-50km that took in more of Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea in lovely weather, we made the decision to head NE towards Mount Cook and the glacial lakes of Pukaki and Tekapo.

The first leg of our northerly diversion took about 5:30hrs and saw us travel over 115km over Lindis Pass (965m high) and down into a small village called Omarama. The best thing about this journey was a sheep farmer who rather than use the traditional sheep-dog method of gathering sheep, (that we're all used to in the IOM and the rest of the world!), had rather show-boatingly gone for a more aerial approach and bought himself a helicopter. I know sheep are big business here but this guy is taking the mick! He was especially pleased to pose for us during his work.














The next part of our journey was again in beautiful weather and carried us further north into Mackenzie Country (a vast area of tussocky sheep country set within tall mountain ranges in the distance) where we hoped to spot Mt. Cook - the highest point in NZ at around 3750m - and it's blue foreground in the form of Lake Pukaki. And so we did...














In keeping with the sheep theme we ended this day by viewing the Church of the Good Shepard on the edge of Lake Tekapo (where we had earlier swam in it's stratified waters - warm for first 12" or so, icy cold beneath!). The weather was spot on all day but the ride was a little dull given the straightness of the roads and the lack of any up-close scenery - all 90km+ of it.









Here's another picture of yours truly looking rather cocky (don't know why - I've been trying to grow a rather dodgy-looking travelling beard!) with Lake Tekapo in the background sporting my rather bright triathlon trainers!


We've basically spent the last two days retracing our 'steps' back to Wanaka. Tomorrow we tackle the highest main road in the country that will see us into Queenstown (the extreme sports capital of the world) where perhaps a bungy jump or sky dive is on the cards.


-AC

Apologies for the dodgy text and picture layout, haven't quite got the hang of this blogger thing yet!

Wednesday 17 January 2007

West Coast, Haast & Wanaka Pics

The pics below show some of the highlights over the past 5 days or so. First one is of the majestic Frans Josef glacier. On this particular day we ventured out in good weather only for nasty clouds and rain to come. It was our rest day so naturally we decided to tackle a 6 hour walk. Baz lasted about 2 hours before he quite rightly decided that there was little point going on with the rain blocking out the scenery and went back to the hostel (complete with sauna) we were staying in. Meanwhile I decided I wanted to climb to the top of the hill (over 1,000m). For the first half of the climb I was tramping through, quite literally, rainforest as shown in pic 2.
The 3rd pic shows the west coast at Knight's Point on the day I predicted apocalyptic rain and clouds but as can be seen, it was all good! This was the day I was suffering up the climbs but the view at the top of this one was well worth the effort.
No.4 shows a nice tree line at Haast - there really wasn't much else of any scenic value - that is until we headed up the Haast Valley in great conditions yesterday - next two pics.
Finally, our campsite last night on lake Wanaka - awe-inspiring.
-AC

The West Coast, Haast & Wanaka








Sunday 14 January 2007

Haast: We made it!

Well after all that Apocalpytic forecasting for yesterday's epic ride from Fox Glacier, the 120km journey down the West Coast to Haast wasn't that bad. In terms of the weather anyway. For me, however, it was a whole new world of pain! Everything seemed to hurt, especially my arse, quads and right ITB. So I've decided to take a rest day today and let Baz crack on to do his own thing without the panniers on - I think he wants to either find a few mountain bike tracks near the coast or ride Haast pass for fun (I'll be doing that tomorrow with him). I'm quite glad it's a free day because once again the weather is dominated by west coast rain.
Here's to Lake Wanaka, our next major stop after we pass over the Southern Alps once more, where the weather is supposed to be more equitable.
-AC

Saturday 13 January 2007

The West Coast Washout

I have no pictures to show; only words. Right now back home everyone will be finishing their dinner and getting ready for bed. Spare a thought for we face today a 117km ride from Fox Glacier to Haast on the West Coast of the South Island in the pouring rain. We arrived yesterday just after noon and since then all it has done it rain. We had a similar fate on our way into Franz Josef glacier a few days ago during a 110km ride in the rain. Everything was wet, wet to the bone.
They say that this region gets 5-6 metres of rainfall a year, sometimes as much as 200mm of rain overnight. I can believe it.
My only solace lies in the fact that Baz will probably do more than his fair share at the front as usual. I think if it was up to him life would be one big steep climb with just a few short sharp descents every now again to keep interest; just as long as he was on his way up in the long run. For some reason that gives me hope, that today can only make us stronger.
Sweet as!
-AC

Tuesday 9 January 2007

Those 'pics

1. View from ferry looking out into Marlborough sound. Sweet as eh?
2. Another view of the sounds from Queen Charlotte Drive, a twisty turny road with ace descents. Vegetation (and good weather) gave the place a tropical feel.
3. A boat house just before we arrived in Havelock, our first camp.
4. A river on day 2 at Picton Bridge scenic reserve.
5. Baz on day 2 showboating from the camera. I've seen a lot of his backside so far on this tour!
6. Me racing a young (and rather rigid) Ernest Rutherford, the Kiwi that split the atom.
7. Me cheesing it up in action on day three where we had a crazy headwind for 90km to St. Arnaud, an alpine ski resort.
8. A view from the Rainbow Road out of St. Arnaud - a 112km off road track that took two days to traverse.
9. Baz crossing one of the dozens of fords on the Rainbow Road.
10. Me on the Rainbow Road with big mountains and scree slopes in the background.
11. The view down the valley to Hanmer Springs, a spa resort.
12. The view of the Cantebury plains on out way to Christchurch.

We're now in Christchurch, it's day 6 and we've travelled over 500km. Knee is sweet - new bike position working well. Tomorrow we climb aboard the Tranzalpine Train to go to the west coast at Greymouth where we plan to head south.

Must dash, cyber cafe about to close.

G'day...

-AC

South Island Pictures




















Tuesday 2 January 2007

Beaches and BBQs


Though New Zealand is suffering its worst summer on record (just my luck) I've just spent 4 days over the New Year at a Bach (pronounced "batch") or beach house in Raumati South (48km north of Wellington). I was with my cousin Neil, his girlfriend Heidi, and their friends Rebecca, Charlotte and Adrian. We had a great time chillin' (quite literally) around the pool, playing beach cricket (see pic' featuring Adrian, Neil and Rebecca) and having barbecues. The cricket was great fun; we even had a few random supporters honking their car horns in the car park next to the beach every time we did something Australian-like. That was, of course, until Rebecca broke the bat - a perfectly formed piece of Tasman Sea driftwood!
New Year was a rather more sedate affair this year: drinking champagne in front of a log fire was a far cry from the up-all-night party and skinny-dip-at-6am foray on Ramsey beach during last year's festivities! Just what the doctor ordered really - some rest and relaxation and time to forget about the niggle with the knee.
On the injury front, things are looking good (fingers crossed), I got out for 3 runs whilst in Raumati South and didn't feel any undue pain, so I'm hopeful (if we take our time) that the South Island will be ours for the taking!
I say "ours" because in less than 2 hours, Baz, a mate from uni' (and a sub-22 minute man for a 10-mile time trial on a bike) gets here with full intent of conquering New Zealand's scenic tour de force. All I hope is that he shows me mercy, and gives me time to catch him up on the hills!
-AC